Why is My Succulent Rotting?

If you’ve taken care of a succulent for quite some time now, you know that at least every succulent enthusiast will eventually encounter rotting . It’s like a right of passage, if you will. Guess you’re staring at it right now, that’s why you’re here! Don’t beat yourself up over it, it happens— trust us.

Rotting can be such a motivation- drain, especially when you’ve been doing your best to have a beaming succulent plant. Why does it happen?

Is it because of a random disease in succulents?  Pest attacks- like those dang mealy bugs?

What exactly causes succulent rotting?

why is my succulent rotting
succulent freckles @succswithoutyou

Why Your Succulent is Rotting

A succulent can end up rotting for a couple of reasons. Continue reading and we’ll outline the reasons for you!

The Cold Winter Season

The first one is the winter cold. Yes, as much as succulents are termed as hardy with a tolerance for extreme conditions, not all of them can bare the combination of frost and low temperatures. Leave them outside during the cold months and rotting is what they’ll do. Here’s our guide on How to Take Care for Succulents in the Winter.

Avoid this scenario and get yourself a grow light, like this one! Bring your succulent babies inside and keep them warm with you during the cold, winter months. Aside from this grow light, check out our article on the additional Best Grow Lights Reviewed by Succulent Lovers.

why is my succulent rotting
brittle baby @inas_eden

Overwatering Your Succulents

The second one is overwatering. The most common. If you just started planting succulents you’re probably already doing it. For the caring soul you are, watering is something high up on your list as far your plants are concerned. You do it with your all but you have to be mindful when watering your succulents.

Being the houseplants that thrive with a bit more neglect, compared to other houseplants, you need to be a bit more conservative with your watering.

That will be great for any other of your plants except succulents. Plenty of water is a sure way of killing those babies. Because as soon as rotting kicks in, the damage is done. Saving the plant is still an option but not in the way you envision.

More on that later though. In the meantime, let us help with our article, When You Should Water Your Succulent.

why is my succulent rotting
stop over watering @leafyroomies

The Wrong Succulent Soil Mix

And finally, your regular potting soil. If you didn’t get this aspect right during the potting stage, then it doesn’t matter how little you water your plant. The water will still be around for periods that aren’t ideal for a succulent.

The right succulent soil mix, needs to be well- draining. Your succulent stores the water it needs within its leaves, so any access water that remains in its soil, is only going to become harmful for your little baby. Here’s succulent soil mix we swear by. Give it a try if you haven’t already!

Those reasons aside, how do you tell that it’s rot you’re dealing with? It’s important to be sure so as to not end up applying the wrong remedy.

Before we continue… We’re just so excited to share with you about our sponsorship with Amazon! And to celebrate, they’re offering a FREE 30-day trial of their Amazon Prime Membership… You know, the membership where you can get FREE 2-day shipping on all your succulent needs?! Click this link to learn more and sign up today!

Okay… back to succulents.

why is my succulent rotting
get yourself the right potting mix @succulent_journey

Diagnosing Rotting in Your Succulent Plant

Rotting, especially due to being overly generous with water, has unique tell-tale signs. For an overwatered succulent

Consider these as precursors to rotting.

Here’s what you’ll see when the plant is really in the red as far as rotting is concerned:

  • Dark brown to black spots appear around the stem area
  • The affected parts become swollen and acquire a black coloration.
  • If the rotting has kicked off from the roots, the plant comes off as unhealthy with droopy leaves.
why is my succulent rotting
splitting Jade leaves @the_orchid_queen

Can a Rotting Succulent Be Saved?

That depends on the extent of the rot. If it is just a few roots that had started to catch on, simply cutting them off will salvage the plant— here’s a trimming set that will come in handy! But if the rotting is present in a larger part of the root ball and the stem, it’s farewell for your succulent – well, to some extent.

Not to worry though. Thanks to the ease of propagation of succulents, you can still end up with a new plant of the same kind. To do this, only pick out the parts that aren’t affected by the rot and set them up in a well-draining soil mix.

In both severe and mild rotting attacks, be sure to keep the following in mind:

  • Use a fresh potting mix. Even if the previous was well-draining, don’t include it in propagation or repotting. That will be a zero sum undertaking.
  • If you’re going to use the same pot, clean it thoroughly. Get another if you don’t trust your idea of thorough. If you’re in need of some new planters, these are adorable, but read on here for 12 stunning succulent planters that are a MUST.
  • Any rotting part is cut off, no matter how small or insignificant it may appear. Only explicitly healthy parts should be considered. That way, you eliminate the possibility of the same problem recurring.
  • The cutting tool should be clean (possibly sterilized) and sharp. Jagged parts and infections aren’t exactly needed here (or anywhere else).
  • Cut parts should be left to dry out before being inserted into any medium.
why is my succulent rotting
let’s save your babies @terracottacorner

Preventative Measure for Rotting Succulents

It will be utterly useless for you to eliminate rotting parts and propagate a new succulent plant, and still end up with the same problem. So, after separating the good from the bad, your care routine should incorporate the following to keep rotting at bay.

A Well-Draining Potting Mix

Your regular potting soil is great. But not with a succulent. That’s if you want a healthy beaming succulent plant. Long periods of wet soil won’t assure you of this.

So, grab a commercial cactus/succulent mix. Or tweak the drainage capabilities of that regular potting soil by adding sand and pumice/perlite.

why is my succulent rotting
succulent lover’s dream patio @minigardens_minsk_brest

Ideal Watering Frequency

If you’ve been too heavy-handed with watering, it’s time to go easy. Remember: too much water is the leading cause of rotting in a succulent plant.

So, how easy should you go so as not to kill your succulent?

Let the top part of the mix be your guide. It should be allowed to dry out completely, between watering sessions, ideally 1-2 inches down the mix.

Keep in mind the growing seasons too. Periods of growth need water (not too much of it) while in dormancy, the amount reduces considerably. That means keeping up with a uniform watering routine can still turn out to be detrimental. So, use the above guidelines during seasons like summer and spring, and cut back during winter.

Use a Clay Pot

Well, if you can help it. Clay is so much better aerated which is a major boost to the drying rate of the potting mix. This gives the succulent roots great breathing space and hence reduce chances of rotting by a huge margin.

Get your clay pots, here. They’d also be great to try DIY painting activities with!

For any other pot type, ensure the drainage holes at the bottom are large enough to let off water as easily as possible.

why is my succulent rotting
grow baby, grow @succulentheaven21

Obey the Succulent Hardiness Value

Very vital if you’re growing your succulents outdoors. All factors adhered to, rotting is still imminent if you’re keeping a succulent in the cold when it should be inside.

So, know your zone. Know the zone your plant is suited for. Can it brace the cold and the accompanying frost? If not, bring it inside as soon as winter kicks in.

Knowing your zone (and that of the plant) is as easy as logging on to the USDA plant hardiness zone Map and typing in the name of your area.

The main reason why your succulent will rot is too much water. But it shouldn’t be the end of your plant. Just cut up the affected parts and start over again. This time round, be sure to adopt good care routines above so that you’re not stuck into an endless loop.

why is my succulent rotting
no rotting here @succulentlovestory

Have you been through the rotting cycle of succulents and have some additional tips for us, drop a comment down below, or join our Facebook group, Succulent City Plant Lounge, and share your thoughts there!

We have dozens of helpful guides on ensuring you can be the best succulent parent you can be! Give our articles like, Can Succulents Survive in My Work Environment and Your Ultimate Guide on How to Take Care of Air Plants, a look today and get inspired!

Did this article help answer your succulent-care questions? We sure hope so! If not, no worries. Succulent City is devoted to aiding all succulent lovers, and that’s why we created a line of ebook guides! Check out our in-depth tips on The Correct Way to Water Succulents or even Succulent Drainage Requirements today!

Thanks for reading, happy planting! ?

How to Tell If Your Cactus is Dying

It’s been some time since you got that cactus. You’re doing all you can to make sure it thrives. Watering. Fertilizing. Sunlight exposure.

You name ’em!

But you haven’t seen a slightest change in quite some time. Is the little thingy really growing? How do you know you’re doing the right thing as far cacti care is concerned?

Worse still, is your cactus dying?

Maybe yes. Maybe no.

One thing with cactuses is that they take time (years) to show any considerable change in size – most of them. Even then, you have to be on the lookout for any signs of deviation from normal growth patterns.

This is how you tell your cactus is dying.

Signs That Your Cactus is Dying

Discoloring cactus

A cactus plant will take on a tinge that is not naturally its own. Depending on where the problem is coming from, the change in color may start at the top end of stem segments or from the base the soil. Dying is guaranteed if rapid action is not taken.

Droopy leaves on cacti

Dying in the few leaf-bearing cacti (like epiphylum) is signaled by downward pointing leaves that lack vigor.

This gives the cactus plant a general unhealthy look (because it is, right?). It will also appear under watered even when you’ve excelled in quenching it.

Soft segments around your cactus

The change of colour above may be accompanied by squishy stem segments that appear swollen.

This also means they can break off easily with minimal force applied.

Try pulling a spine off. That’s a dying cactus if you manage to pull off the specialized leaves.

Instability in your cactus potting soil

You’ll know this if the plant has a lean. Not bent – just the whole plant leaning to a particular side. A dying cactus is shaky in its potting mix and may appear as though it’s about to fall off – well, it will definitely fall off if you moved it, for a severe case. A sign of lack of roots. Or the existing ones may be too weak to properly support the plant.

This is assuming you potted the plant just right.

Foul smells coming from your cactus plant

Now, that’s a really bad sign. A foul smell means a large part of the cactus is completely rotten and there is nothing you can do to save it.

In other words, it is no longer in the dying process, it’s actually deceased now. All you can really do now is dispose of your fighting cactus plant and obtain a new one whether it be from a purchase or from a friend.

Why is Your Cactus Dying?

Overwatering

The age-old sure way to kill a cactus is by treating it to frequent watering sprees. It may look like a sensible thing to do. Only that with a cactus, the more frequent it is getting water, the higher the chances of it dying.

This is so because the water is such a perfect condition for rot.

Inappropriate potting medium

If you didn’t get the memo – your regular potting soil is a no-go zone for a cactus. It just holds on to water for way longer than your plant would prefer.

So, even if you get the watering correct, the soil mix will pull you back a couple of steps. The long periods of dampness are a nice condition for rot. And before you know it, your plant is exhibiting signs of dying.

A wound becoming infected

It may have happened that a part of the stem broke off leaving an open patch.

Such a part is just what bacteria and some pests need to wreck havoc on your cactus. It is soft therefore making it an easy target for insects with munching tendencies. Bacterial infection may come about mainly in the cold weather or when the plant is not exposed to enough sunlight for the injured part to callous over time.

Such wounds cause the plant to start dying from top.

Wrong pot size

Getting the wrong size of a pot for your cactus is a sure way of kicking off its dying process. It could be too small or too large.

Small or large in this case will depend on the size of your cactus.

A pot that is smaller than your plant will choke up its roots as there is little breathing space. A larger than life pot on the other hand is bound to keep so much water sparking off rotting in both the roots and stem. Talk about a double tragedy… you’ll have to find the right balance that’s best for your specific cactus.

How to Save a Dying Cactus

Whether or not your plant can be saved, depends on the extent of rot. For instance, as you’ve seen above, a foul smell emanating from your cactus is a sign that you’ve lost that plant.

But in cases where dying is just getting started, it’s possible to salvage the plant or part of it for propagation purposes.

If the rot is starting off at the top of the stem, cut away small pieces of it (the stem) as you move down to the base of the plant. You want to make sure the any rotten material is done away with for good. Only stop when you reach healthy tissue.

If the plant is taking a beating from the roots up, you’ll have to take the propagation route. Just as above, cut up the plant until you have only healthy tissue before you stop. Let the cut part dry and set it up in a well-draining mix.

Also, make sure to check other aspects like the potting medium, the size of the pot and your watering. Make the following changes if you haven’t already:

  • Repot the plant remnant in a pot that fits it exactly, leaving just enough space for the soil mix. Also, remember to use a commercial cactus and succulent mix or create one by mixing regular potting soil with coarse sand and pumice.
  • Water only when the top part of the mix is dry.

Additionally, if pests and diseases were a part of the problem, apply the appropriate chemicals so as the remaining part of the plant is free from these past ghosts.

Now you’re in the know about dying cactus plants. The signs, reasons, handling and preventing. Time to check around your cacti collection and do the necessary.


Have you learned how to tell if your cactus is dying or not? Let us know what we missed out and we’ll be sure to include it in the article, we want to help as many cactus lovers as we can.

REMINDER: We have an ~exclusive~ Facebook succulent group where you can join in on fellow succulent- lovers’ conversations and post your own experiences & photos! Check it out now!

Calling all succulents lovers— rookie or veteran! Succulent City has developed a line of 12 ebooks (see here), ranging on topics from indoor & outdoor succulents, essential tools, the best soil to use, and more! We even threw in a complimentary ebook to help get your succulent journey started you just have to insert your email on our front page for this. With our ebooks you’ll be a succulent guru in no time, have fun!

Thanks for reading and happy cacti planting! (:

What to do When Succulent Leaves are Splitting?

Remember that day when you brought your first succulent home? You couldn’t take your eyes off that cute, little Echeveria.

A few moons later, what started out as a one plant show has grown to a collection of exotic cacti and rare succulents. And as the varieties have increased, so has the gardening pains.

If you’re not battling with mealy bugs, then you’re either beheading your plants due to etiolation or having your succulents collapse on you due to root rot. Whichever the case, growing succulents is an adventurous road trip.

For succulent leaves, splitting is a sign of too much care – for a larger part. Ironical, right? 

But you definitely don’t want split leaves. So, find out the one maintenance regimen you need to cut back on and how to further salvage the situation.

Let’s dive in.

Why Succulent Leaves Are Splitting

Watering is one of the necessary maintenance routines for plants – for obvious reasons. But for succulent plants, too much of it will cause splitting of leaves.

By nature, these plants are adapted to surviving in scarce water conditions. Their transpiration rates are way lower than your average plant; meaning that any drop that travels up their system is stored (in the leaves) as it awaits utilization.

Now, in conditions of abundance, so much water is coming in leading to an excess. But remember the succulents here have no mechanism of getting rid of it. They can only store. As the water accumulates in the leaves, it leads to increased turgor pressure which splits them.

Additionally, succulent leaves will split if the plant is in a potting mix with poor drainage.

Either way, the aesthetic value of such a plant is definitely on the verge of being lost. Here’s what you can do about it.

What to do When Succulent leaves are Splitting

As you have already guessed from above, reducing the watering frequency is a worthwhile step to take for succulent leaves that are splitting.

As much as it is a step in the right direction, it might just not be effective. The plant has already taken up more water than it can store/ use up. Adding it more, albeit at spread out intervals can still prove detrimental depending on the soil mixture.

Even if you have the right soil mixture, the fact remains that the plant has excess water. And there is no way of telling if this water would have been used up by the time you decide to water the plant again.

Here are more effective tips to apply in your fight against leaf splitting.

  • If you have the right potting mixture (good drainage), completely discontinue watering for a week or so. For this period, a well-draining soil mix should be dry for a larger part. Test for this by dipping your finger into the pot. If the the soil is still moist, it’s time to move on to the next step below.
  • For soil with poor drainage, remove the plant from its current place and rid it of all the wet soil. Put the plant somewhere dry with enough light (away from direct sunlight) for a period of up to a week. After that, replant it, this time using potting soil with good drainage capabilities. Wait for a week before you start watering. Keep the watering at minimal and the sessions far apart.

How to NEVER Have Splitting Succulent Leaves

You can take a proactive approach in dealing with splitting succulent leaves. Take note of the following…

Soil mix

It is imperative to choose a mix that is well-draining to eliminate any possibilities of excess water. Take note, going for commercial options is your best bet. Just purchase commercial cactus and succulent potting mix and get going.

Alternatively, you can make your own mix by combining measured quantities of potting soil, coarse sand, and pumice or perlite. To further improve drainage, plant your succulents in pots that correspond to their sizes – just leaving a small extra space. Repot them as they grow to maintain this set up.

Growth cycles

Succulents have different water needs at their various development stages. For instance, they need a lot of watering when growing. This has to be alternated with periods of a complete lack of it to partially dry out the soil.

In their dormant stage, very little water is required and therefore the potting soil should remain as dry as possible. At least half of the potting soil should be dry.

Watering frequency

This is determined by the stage of development as outlined above. In both stages, the top soil is the ultimate determinant of the right time to water.

The top part of the mix should be dry. This dryness should extend up to 2 inches into the pot if the succulent is in the growth stage. You can use your finger to measure this. Just dip it into the soil mix to see if there’s any moisture. If yes, refrain from watering until when there is a complete dryness.

We like to use a watering can like this to make things easier.


Try these tips out and let us know what you think. Did your succulents recover nicely from splitting leaves or did it ultimately fall?

If you have any concerns or suggestions please let our follower base know below. No concern or suggestion is bad, if you have a problem with your succulents we’re sure there are more people who have the same problem.

Thank you so much for reading our article! If you haven’t already you should check out the snake plant article too a lot of people enjoyed this one especially. And like always happy planting friends!

Enjoyed learning about What to do When Succulent Leaves are Splitting? If so, you’ll really enjoy the ebook about The Most Common Issues Amongst Succulent Growers. With this ebook, you’ll find yourself more detailed answers that’ll help your succulent grow even better! With thousands of succulent lovers enjoying our ebooks, you don’t want to miss out on what works the best to grow your succulents.

My Succulents are Etiolated, what can I do?

You’re a certified succulent plant lover. It’s Saturday morning. You’re taking a stroll around your mini succulent garden or throwing a glance at your succulent collection in your apartment. You notice something odd about your succulents.

They seem nothing like what you see on Instagram that made you fall in love with succulents. That Mexican rose that is supposed to grow short, compact and close-knitting rosettes is elongated and scrawny with wide spaces between the leaves.

The oh-so-lovely sedeveria letizia you were planning to “wow” everyone with appears leggy, bent on one side and has turned pale.

At this point, you’re tempted to ask the classic question.

“Where did I go wrong..?”

If you can relate, then your plants are suffering from insufficient light. This is the last thing every succulent lover wants to bump into as it robs a beautiful succulents aesthetic value.

A succulent exuding such morphological characteristics is said to be etiolated or undergoing etiolation.

Etiolated Senecio Stapeliiformis
Etiolated Senecio Stapeliiformis @virescentkith

What is etiolation?

In layman’s terms, etiolation is a pathological condition exhibited by plants grown in insufficient light characterized by pale color and stretched or bent stature. Etiolation not only occurs in succulents, but also in other numerous major plant groups.

It’s a natural response mechanism by the plant to sunlight deprivation. These unfavorable conditions force the plant to respond by rapidly growing in a direction where it perceives to have maximum light.

This results to the stretched and bent morphology exuded by etiolated plants. The plants appear weak and pale since they spend a lot of energy trying to grow towards the direction of light than they’d normally do.

Etiolation is most prevalent in indoor plants. This is due to the fact that most indoor spaces are poorly lit for some light-loving succulent species. It also occurs in gardens and outdoor plants if they’re grown under a shade or blocked from the sunlight for too long.

While etiolation is mostly accidental due to insufficient light, it can be manipulated to produce certain varieties of plants. For example, farmers grow white Celery and white Asparagus with absolutely no light to result in white stalks and spears. These are expensive and even considered more delicious than their green counterparts.

With etiolated succulents however, no upside is evident – only deformed, goofy-looking plants, quite the opposite of what they’re meant to be.

Why are my succulents etiolated?

Again, etiolation is caused by insufficient light. Such plants adjust their growth mechanism in order to reach as much light as possible. Sunlight is very important to plants for photosynthesis.

This is just a fancy term for the process in which plants make their own food by converting sunlight to energy. This food is used in the growth and development of the plant’s roots, leaves, stems and flowers. The plant’s entire cycle is dependent on this food.

In fact, biologically speaking, all life on earth is dependent on Photosynthesis. Quite a statement, right? Nothing could be closer to the truth.

Green plants are consumed by herbivores which are later eaten by man and carnivores. This entire food chain is anchored on sunlight as its foundation.

In a nutshell, if plants are grown in low-light conditions, they will stretch, curve or do whatever they can to reach light so that they can make food and survive. In other words, plants not only depend on light for growth but for survival as well.

How do I know if my succulent is etiolated?

Your succulent will let you know when you are depriving it of sunlight. However, as much as etiolation may be common, it is of great importance to differentiate etiolated plants from healthy growing ones. Some succulent varieties will exhibit rapid growth. These vigorous, healthy succulents also have tall stems and are sometimes mistaken for etiolated plants.

For the sake of clarity, check out these 4 signs to detect hints of etiolation in your plants.

1. Leaves point downwards

Rosette forming succulents such as Echeverias and Sempervivums are recognized for their fleshy and upright leaves that grow in tufts. However, when they’re deprived of light, these leaves begin to droop and eventually point downwards.

This serves as the earliest sign that etiolation is kicking in. This phenomenon of leaves pointing downwards is the plant’s adaptation to get access to more light for photosynthesis by increasing each individual leaf’s surface area.

Such drooping is not permanent and can be corrected by exposing the plant to abundant sunlight. The recommended dosage of sunlight for most sun-loving succulents is a minimum of four hours per day.

2. Succulents lean on its side

While a normal, healthy plant will grow vertically, light-starved succulents usually appear curved, growing towards the direction where more light seems to be. This is also an adaptation or mechanism for the plant to get enough light for photosynthesis. This results in weak, gangly-looking succulents.

If the etiolated plant is not moved into sufficient light, the tall growth leaning on the side will eventually lead to the stem breaking.

In the wild, this stretching to the point of breaking is another adaptation. Once the stem breaks off, it starts sprouting new roots and grows normally under enough light.

If you want to take a precautionary measure so that your succulent does not break, tie some string with these bamboo stakes for support.

3. Unusual rapid growth & long internodes

Most succulents are known to be slow growing. However, when starved of light, they tend to exhibit rapid, longitudinal growth to reach the light source quickly. They invest all their energy into growing towards the direction of light and thus grow at a quicker rate than usual.

This rushed growth leads to an elongated stem having few leaves that are widely spaced. The explanation for this is that the new leaves can’t catch up with the rate at which the stem is growing and thus only a few leaves are formed.

This is also a survival antic since an elongated stem provides more space for light to penetrate the leaves so that photosynthesis can take place.

4. Pale & weak appearance

The vibrant green color in plants is as a result of a substance known as chlorophyll. The formation of chlorophyll in plants depends on the amount of light the plant is exposed to. Etiolated plants are deprived of light which means little chlorophyll formation and this leads to a pale green color.

The plant also appears weak due to limited photosynthesis.

How to fix etiolation in succulents

Well, how about some bad news? It’s literally impossible to fix an etiolated succulent. Once the succulent has become leggy, thin and stretched, it can never recover.

Etiolation is permanent.

However, as stated earlier, if you detect signs of etiolation early enough before the plant starts stretching, then it can be salvaged. But if you want to reshape your etiolated succulent to its former beautiful stature – you’re out of luck unfortunately.

Good thing is, you can always propagate the etiolated succulent and end up with more plants! This can easily be done through beheading. Succulents such as Echeverias can be propagated through beheading. For others, plucking the healthy leaves and propagating them may be appropriate. Read more on how you can behead succulents here.

Beheading etiolated succulents results in more plants because both cuts are replanted. Simply leave an inch or two from the crown and make a neat cut using a sharp, sterilized knife or scissors. Leave the cuttings to dry for a day or two. Plant the beheaded crown in a separate pot containing well-draining soil. Ensure the soil is slightly moist for rooting to occur. Chop off any curved parts on the stump and replant it with new soil too.

After a few weeks, the stump will start producing baby plants and the crown will be fully established and rooted. Read more on how you can properly propagate succulents if you want an in depth guide.

Preventing etiolation in succulents

Etiolation can be quite a headache when growing succulents indoors. However, there are various ways to avoid it.

1. Repositioning your succulents

Move your plants to a spot that receives more direct sunlight.

If growing indoors, a large uncovered window facing south-wards would be a perfect location. Aim for a minimum of 4 hours of direct sunlight per day. If you’re an outdoor hero, be sure to set your plants where they’ll receive full sun without being obstructed. Be careful not to overdo it.

Too much sun will lead to sunburn. This can be evidenced by brown edges on leaves. (Another problem…)

2. Invest in a grow lamp

These artificial light resources help in the growth of indoor plants by providing photosynthesis-specific wavelengths. This ensures that the plant carries on with photosynthesis.

A grow lamp would be of significant help if you live in areas with a lot of cloudy days, long winters or short daytimes. Be sure to locate the grow lamp vertically above your plant to ensure the plant grows straight.

3. Choose different succulents

Sometimes, providing ideal growing conditions for a certain succulent may be quite a task, especially lighting. Growing other succulents with low-light requirements can be a good option.

Visit Succulents Box if you want new succulents monthly.

What types of succulents are less prone to etiolation?

Though etiolation can occur in any succulent, some species are more susceptible to it than others. This is especially true for succulents that are rosette forming with well-developed stems.

The following genera of succulents are most susceptible to etiolation.

  • Echeveria
  • Sedum
  • Crassula
  • Sedeveria
  • Graptosedum
  • Graptopetalum

Now that you know what causes your succulent plant to reach for the skies… what will you do to prevent this and keep your succulents healthy? Let us know if this has helped you in any way we’d love to hear how your succulents are growing!

If you’d like this read you’re going to love our full in-depth ebooks! With so many of our succulent lovers asking for more, we listened and can’t wait to share it with you here! With our very detailed ebooks, you’ll get more information than these short articles, some ebooks are 30+ pages, perfect for a weekend read.

Happy planting! ?

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