Cephalocereus Senilis

Cephalocereus senilis is an endangered cactus from Mexico. It is columnar in size that rarely can branch out, with prolonged growth. The cactus grows only about 4 inches per year. It reaches 3 feet in height raised in the home, and up to 40 feet if wild. They have spines in the form of gray hair that serves to protect them from the cold. Because of their curious appearance, they are called “Old Man’s Head.”. They produce large white flowers. These flowers only bloom at night, in mid-spring or early summer when the cactus is about ten years old. To properly develop their spines in the form of hair, the cactus should be exposed to sunlight. When they are young, Cephalocereus senilis does not withstand temperatures below 50ºF. When they are adults, they can stand even 40ºF.

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A picture of Cephalocereus Senilis @floratopia

This species of cactus can live for more than a century. Although this cactus presents its characteristic white hair from the first moment, it is still a prickly cactus. Its spines are yellow and are born just before its coat of fur. It is not recommended to touch them without caution.


The cactus can be grown both, indoors and outdoors. However, it is more common to see it out thanks to its need for abundant sunlight to grow and develop its hair optimally. When produced in a pot, it is advisable to fill it with a light substrate with good drainage; the pumice is an ideal option. But if you are one of those who like to prepare your substrate with a little fine gravel and black peat you can make an excellent substrate for your Cephalocereus senilis. If we want to plant it in our garden, the soil must be equally light. It must not accumulate waterlogging since the Old Man’s Head cactus will not be able to withstand a flood. To take the appropriate precautionary measures, you can dig the hole to plant it and fill it with a little substrate to ensure better soil drainage.

Regardless of the type of crop that we want to give our Cephalocereus senilis, we must consider that water drainage is the most crucial factor. No water must remain. We can use some other materials so that our substrate is safe. And it has adequate drainage which is coarse sand or washed river sand. Which are quite mineral and are not compact since they can rot at the root quickly.

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Image: IG@liliacacti_hossein_h

Weather Conditions

The solar explosion is essential for the “Old Man’s Head,” so it should ideally be outside. It would be best if you gave it sunlight, preferably direct sunlight, for long periods. If you are not used to directing exposure, it is best to acclimatize it little by little to avoid damage from burns. The importance of this intense and prolonged exposure is its characteristic hair. These hairs protect our cactus against harmful rays. Besides, the direct Sun helps them grow faster and more robust. The cultivation in totally shaded places can result in partial or even total paralysis in the growth of our Cephalocereus senilis.    

Despite being a cactus and needing direct and prolonged sunlight, the ideal temperature of the “Old Man’s Head” is not very high; it is around 59ºF, being able to withstand interior temperatures of up to 68ºF without significant problem. When the cold and winter seasons arrive, it would be convenient to keep it in a fresh and dry part inside the house. There are adult specimens in the wild capable of facing 32ºF during these freezing times, depending on their age and size. The cactus should not be exposed to such low temperatures or frost, during the first years.

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Image: IG@cheyennebotanic


Cephalocereus senilis is a too delicate specimen when it comes to irrigation. Its base is susceptible and prone to rotting if it is watered directly or remains wet for a long time. It does not withstand even high humidity for long periods. Its waterings must be highly moderate and sporadic. It is vital for our cactus that we hope that the earth is parched before thinking about watering it again. The frequency of irrigation will not be the same during the winter, being that in summer we watered little; in winter, it should receive almost no water. This plant should be moistened when the soil is arid, and even then, it is advisable to allow about two days to pass. The curious thing about these cacti is that they are also somewhat susceptible to drought when they are young. If we have them in a pot, we must be cautious in the summertime. To prevent it from dehydrating we must water the soil as soon as it is scorched.

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The spring and early summer seasons are ideal for fertilizing our Cephalocereus senilis. We should provide him with a mineral fertilizer rich in lime or a standard cactus fertilizer to grow his characteristic “white hairs.” Still, it is essential to be careful not to overdose. Flowering occurs in older cacti with more than 15 years of age and usually occurs only outdoors; it is almost impossible to flow in indoor specimens successfully. Its flowers arise from a very hairy body developed on the stem’s sides; they are tubular flowers with red, white, and pinkish pigmentation. These flowers usually fully bloom at night.

Cephalocereus senilis can be easily propagated from seed. It is preferable to do this during spring or summer. We must place these in trays with a cactus substrate. Keep them in a bright area with enough indirect light and water so that the soil remains moist. If everything goes well, we should have germinated seeds between ten and fifteen days after planting them. The “Old Man’s Head” cactus needs to be transplanted every two to three years. During the spring, into a larger container to provide it with a renewed space to grow.

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Image: IG@martynurquijo


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Image: Cephalocereus senilis Risk of Rot

The most significant risks of Cephalocereus senilis are excess water, which can rot the plant efficiently and quickly, and pests of both woolly mealybugs or fungi. Some of these pests are often difficult to detect, thanks to the fact that the “white hairs” cover its stem completely, making it almost impossible to see it with the naked eye; even the thorns are difficult to notice. This feature means we must be vigilant, especially in the summer when these pests usually invade our cactus.

Blue Spruce Sedum

Sedum reflexum, also known as Blue spruce sedum, is a succulent perennial native to Europe, slow-growing but very dense, and can reach 10 inches. It is an evergreen plant with oval and thin leaves, with a soft light green texture; these develop on a narrow stem forming little compact rosettes; they are fleshy and somewhat coarse. Despite being a plant that grows wild, it is highly appreciated in an ornamental way thanks to its beautiful yellow and gold flower bouquets beautiful flowering.

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Blue Spruce Sedum: IG@su.ca

These usually appear mainly during May, forming dense clusters filled with their tiny yellow star-shaped flowers. Its main ornamental uses include being used as vegetation to cover walls, fill borders, or rockeries. Thanks to its remarkable capacity to withstand such environments. Being a succulent plant does not require too much care, and it withstands drought very well. It is a plant that is not very suitable for growing in pots if proper care is not taken.

Blue Spruce Sedum is a surprisingly hardy plant. It can resist frost. It tolerates well the salinity of the soil, medium drought, and vegetates well in poor, well-drained, stony, dry dirt with a particular sandy texture. The Blue spruce sedum is a plant that grows naturally in stone landings or stony grasses and can be home-grown in habitats that simulate nature. We must plant it in siliceous substrates so that it adapts and grows healthy. Sedum reflexum can be grown in a rich and poor substrate in nutrients; this will not significantly affect its physiological development. The only essential thing is that these substrates need to have good drainage since the only danger that this plant will run is suffering from excess humidity. It is necessary to avoid the excess water in the substrate to prevent rotting.

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Weather Conditions

This succulent requires a sun exposure that depends on its climate, and its east is temperate; it can have direct and constant exposure. It can always be in full sun, and although it resists drought and intense heat well, we must be attentive to watering during spring and summer if it is in full sun. Keeping it hydrated during these times is beneficial as it stimulates its flowering and maintains its healthy leaves. It can also grow in places with a lot of indirect light, especially in more tropical climates. It is recommended to have partial shade during the noon hours. This plant’s need for direct light means that it can develop etiolation quickly; that is, its stems will begin to lengthen in search of direct sunlight.

This etiolation process can significantly affect the health of our Sedum reflexum and cause it to weaken. In addition to suffering from etiolation, this succulent will not present any flowering if kept indoors without direct sunlight exposure. These factors make us note that it is not suitable to be kept indoors unless it is in a well-lit room where it can receive direct sunlight for a few hours a day. During the spring, we can cover it with some light compost. This Blue spruce sedum is not a plant that requires pruning in the sense of the word. All we have to do is check our Sedum reflexum periodically and keep it clean of any wilted stems, leaves, and flowers.

When grown in tropical climates, high temperatures encourage stem growth and flowering to be much more frequent. In these hot, tropical climates, it has a steady increase, unlike in temperate climates. In these more temperate environments, its growth is a little slower; also, it suffers from a total paralysis in its development in the winter seasons. Despite supporting low temperatures well, if they are below 32°F, the plant may not withstand them and dies. Its ideal temperatures are between 95 and 77ºF.

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Blue Spruce Sedum Cultivation: IG@su.ca_


Depending on where it is grown, Blue Spruce Sedum requires moderate watering throughout the year. This request should be more frequent in summer and spring since the substrate tends to dry much faster, especially in full sun. During the autumn and winter seasons, where there are relatively low temperatures, we must reduce our succulent watering. Keeping the dirt regularly moist can cause rotting of the leaves, stems, and roots. So it is recommended to stall until your substrate is completely dry. Even leave one or two more days before watering again. We must avoid wetting the leaves, stem, and flowers directly at the time of watering, we only need to soak the substrate around the stem, and voila, our Sedum reflexum will be hydrated.

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Blue Spruce Watering: IG@rhoda.reaper


Our Blue Spruce Sedum can be multiplied by merely employing seeds and cuttings. We must let the leaf or stem cut dry until the plant generates a callus in the cut area. When this happens, we must plant it in the recommended substrate and water it only when it is dry. These transplants should only be done during the spring since it is the most significant plant activity.

We must prepare a pot or a hole in the ground for the seeds, ensuring that it has good drainage to avoid any excess water. We fill it with the substrate, water the seeds with a prudent separation between them, and then cover it with more substrate and water. After fifteen days of planting them, the seeds begin to germinate. When planting the Sedum reflexum, we must do so with a prudent distance that is not very long but is not very close.

The ideal time to do this is during the months from October to February. These are good options, but thanks to the fact that this succulent produces abundant children, it is best to very carefully remove one of these “children” from the mother plant and place it in a separate pot. In time, it will grow into a mother plant and will have children of its own. This technique is the one of the fastest and safest way to multiply this succulent.

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Blue Spruce Sedum Cultivation: IG@plantmomma_mia


It is a plant that strongly resists many pests and diseases. Some cases are affected by a plague, such as cochineal, or by an infestation of ants. Still, it is easy to remove. However, we must be careful of pathogenic fungal pests that can rot their leaves and stems. We must take care of snails and slugs since they tend to feed on Sedum reflexum and leave it reduced to just a nibbled branch. Also, some birds find this succulent incredibly delicious and will attack it every time they can. We must be vigilant for any of these cases to act in time, change our plant’s location, or spray it with an insecticide to avoid further damage.

Graptoveria Opalina

Graptoveria ‘Opalina’ is a hybrid succulent plant that produces clusters of tight rosettes of smooth, upright, thick leaves of a pale bluish-green color, which, when grown on direct bright light, blush with a soft pink at the tips and the margins of the leaves. This succulent spreads like a small shrub as it grows, reaching a size of up to 8 inches tall and 6 inches wide. In late spring, this plant produces short branches of yellow flowers with an orange center. It has typical characteristics of succulents, from the need for dry soils to resistance to cold climates. Because it is a non-toxic decorative plant, it is safe to have it in homes with pets or small children without any danger.

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Hybrid Succulent

The Graptoveria ‘Opalina’ can be cultivated both in partial shade and in the direct Sun easily. This second option is the best to highlight the pinkish color it can present in its leaves. Interestingly, this coloration on the plates can vary over a broad spectrum depending on the amount of direct light provided. If we keep this plant in the shade, its leaves will take on a powdery bluish-green appearance. This succulent plant is hardy in temperatures up to 30 ° F.

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Irrigation & Watering

The irrigation that this plant requires is relatively scarce, being moderate, approximately every two weeks in the summer, spring, and autumn and more reduced during the winter. This method is to avoid damage due to low temperatures. Some important aspects to consider when watering are that we must allow the soil to dry completely before watering. This plant is very susceptible to water, and to avoid possible damage and infestation and root rot, and kill our plant; we must be careful in the amount of irrigation.

If we have our Graptoveria ‘Opalina’ in a pot, we must allow total drainage of the humidity before watering again. It is also important to avoid spraying the leaves directly since if it is in direct Sun, they could suffer burns, and, if the temperature is shallow, damage by freezing. Being very tolerant in poor soils does not require much fertilization; a little at the beginning of each growing season will be enough to keep it healthy and with strong growth.

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Cultivation of Opalina

Depending on the cultivation site, be it direct soil or a pot, the soil’s quality that this succulent requires can vary. In natural soil, Graptoveria ‘Opalina’ can withstand lower, sandy, and porous conditions. In contrast, plants of this species grown in pots can survive with a mixture of sandy soil and topsoil. It is essential to mention that, in both cases, the ground must have excellent drainage to prevent diseases in the root of the plant. Suppose it is kept cultivated in direct soil, in those seasons where the temperatures are very low or even hailstorms. In that case, it should be considered to cover it and protect it since Graptoveria ‘Opalina’ is resistant to low temperatures, but only for short periods. In being in a pot, we should only move it inside when these freezing seasons begin.

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Growth of Opalina

If this succulent Opalina is grown in a place with direct bright light, it requires little maintenance; however, if it develops in partial light or shade, it can begin to create long legs and need some extra care. Besides, if grown in the shade, the plant would not count with the particular pink coloration in its leaves; instead, these would only be bluish-green. We must be careful since the major diseases that this plant can present are due to excess water, either by irrigation or by being located in a humid, poorly ventilated, and cold environment. Extra shade, dryness, or heat can also be a problem, so we must be attentive to the signs of any of these cases.
The Graptoveria ‘Opalina’ growth is usually more active and accelerated during cold and winter seasons. Later in the hot and summer seasons, this is a curious characteristic since it is a subtropical succulent. It grows, dispersing well below and around the mother rosette, usually creating numerous suckers in its growing seasons.


This succulent plant is easy to propagate using cuttings, seeds, or offsets. To grow it through cuttings, you only need to cut a leaf from the main floor, then, you must let the cutting rest for a few days and place it on a bed, be it direct soil or a pot, but it must have good drainage. Finally, You only have to water the plant when it needs it, and it will begin to grow as a mother rosette as the days go by, and voila, a new Graptoveria ‘Opalina’ would enter the family.

If you want to use seeds, we must make sure that the temperature is warmer. Find a place that we consider suitable, and plant them, only watering when the soil is dry and always making sure that it has good drainage. Depending on the ground and temperature, germination can vary in speed but shouldn’t take more than a few weeks. When germination is ready, the plant will begin to produce small rosette offsets. If we want to propagate it more, we have to cut these offsets. Let them dry for one or two days, and plant them in suitable soil with moderate irrigation.

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To Conclude, main way to propagate this plant is through a leaf, although this is a slightly slower process. We need to select a plate and gently tear it off the stem, ensuring that no part of the leaf remains on the branch. We leave it for a day or so and plant it where we want, and it will begin to grow and slowly become a rosette.
When selecting a place to plant it, we must take into account that if we sow it in a pot, we must change it every two years to a larger one until it reaches its maximum size so that its roots have enough space and it continues its growth in a stable and healthy.

If we plant it in direct soil, we should not do this. But we will have to be careful when watering and infestations. A Graptoveria ‘Opalina,’ when well cared for, tends to stay relatively healthy. But sometimes, it is inevitable to attract the attention of some pests, such as aphids and mealybugs; if the plant begins to show signs of these pests’ presence, we must act immediately to eliminate them. All this to help keep it healthy and beautiful in our garden or inside our house.

How To Save Succulent With A Black Stem

how to save a succulent with a black stem
A picture of a succulent

Succulent Stem-Rot 

So you want to learn how to save a succulent with a black stem? 

Well then, congratulations. You came to the right place!

Succulent City is your best bet for tried and true succulent-revival tips and tricks. 

You want nothing but the best for your lovely green ladies. We understand that. 

So when you come across icky black splotches on your succulent, we know just how confused, sad, and disheartened it makes you feel. 

These blackened areas are called stem-rot (or root-rot) and are a succulent enthusiast’s worst nightmare.

So what exactly is stem-rot? 

How do we cure it?

For the answers to this and more, visit the Succulent City Plant Lounge – meet other succulent lovers from across the globe. Read their experiences, hear their stories and learn their remedies.

What Is Stem-Rot?

It is a disease characterized by yellow, mushy leaves/stems and visible black or brown spots that manifest on the unlucky succulent. 

Stem-rot and root-rot are especially common among succulents growing in warm, humid climates zones.

Stem-rot refers to rot occurring on or around the stem, above ground level, while root-rot refers to decay taking place down among the roots, below ground-level.

One thing you should know: a succulent with visible stem-rot has a 20% probability of survival, and that’s being generous!

It stands a better chance if caught early, while the decay is still down in the roots. However, once the rot is visible above ground, it’s already got the unlucky succulent in a choke-hold.

It’s a terrifying thought, losing your dear green babies to this black scourge. 

How To Treat A Succulent With Stem-Rot 

At Succulent City, we believe the succulent is more than a simple plant. Instead, we choose to view it more like a little green companion – a reflection of your personality.

With this in mind, we curated a list of to-dos that, if followed, should land a solid blow on the nasty rot and give your succulent a fighting chance. 

Read on and learn how to treat a succulent afflicted with stem-rot. 

1. Cease all watering immediately.

Excess moisture is what got your ailing succulent here in the first place. More water will only make matters worse, sealing your plant’s fate.

2. Take the plant out of its pot.

Get rid of the old soil and wash the succulent’s roots under running water. 

You must be gentle, considering they might be rotting and ready to crumble at the slightest touch. 

3. Chop off any part of the succulent exhibiting black/brown discoloration.

Discard cuttings carefully to avoid contact with any other healthy plants.

4. Be sure to use only new equipment. 

Don’t let anything from the infected plant come in contact with your new setup.

5. Mix a fresh batch of quick-drain soil. 

Click on me to read an excellent article by Succulent City explaining how to DIY your succulent soil at home.

6. Get a new planter – preferably terracotta or ceramic – and fill it halfway with soil. 

Carefully place your now-healthy succulent into the pot and proceed to fill it with soil to the brim. 

Ensure your planter has a drainage hole to avoid stagnant water. 

7. Place the remaining healthy succulent in a cool, dry, well-ventilated place away from direct sunlight.

Avoid hot & humid locations at all costs.

For more stem-rot DIY remedies, check out our Succulent City Facebook page to share tips, tricks, and inspiration from fellow succulent lovers from across the globe!  

How Do I Know If My Succulent Has Stem-Rot?

Nine times out of ten, stem-rot usually begins below ground.

Usually caused by extra water in the soil due to over-watering or insufficient drainage, the roots get wet and slimy and start to rot. 

If you suspect root-rot as the source of your succulent’s woes, remove the plant from its pot and inspect the roots. 

A healthy succulent’s roots should be firm to the touch with a light brown/tan color. Rotting roots will feel soft, mushy and some may even crumble on contact. Infected roots have a dark, blackish hue to them and smell something similar to rotting vegetables.

If the rot isn’t found and treated while below ground, it will climb up the root system, creep above ground, and begin to affect the stem. 

Slowly eating away at the stem, you may notice the leaves turn an unhealthy shade of pale yellow. Should it proceed unencumbered, the lower half of the succulent will get soft to the touch and start rotting away. 

By this time, the affliction has your succulent well in its grasp. It takes a lot of effort and a lot of luck to get it free.

A case of prevention is better than cure. 

Carry on reading to learn the causes of stem-rot and how to avoid it altogether.

What Causes Stem-Rot?

A couple of things could be responsible for this destructive infection. More often than not, excess moisture in the soil tends to be the culprit.

1. Over-watering 

Succulents are native to arid and semi-arid regions. They receive very little rainfall and have adapted their biochemistry to store water in their thick green leaves and stems. 

Over-watering causes the succulent to store more & more water resulting in the leaves(or stem) bursting open to release excess water. This act damages the plant tissue and exposes it to infection.

2. Fungi

Soil dwelling fungi may also be the chief cause of your succulent misfortune. Indeed, these parasites are the bane of succulent lovers worldwide. Known to attack the roots, Phytophthora, in particular, is a mold fungus. It thrives in areas of excess moisture/flooding with poor drainage. 

3. Sunburn

Too much of anything is poisonous. Different succulents have different preferences. Sure, they might look similar, but keep one individual species in the sun for too long, and it will produce black spots as the leaves begin to burn. 

4. Pests

Bugs such as mites, aphids, and mealybugs dine like kings on succulent plants. Pay close attention to your green companion; if you notice small freckle-like black spots, these guys are most likely the ones responsible. 


Prevention Is Better Than Cure

A stitch in time saves nine – English Proverb.

More than 95% of stem-rot is a result of over-watering. Going by this, it’s safe to say keeping your succulents nice and dry may help you dodge the bullet. Succulents don’t need watering every day. Twice a week should be just fine.

Bringing me to my next point, always ensure your grow-pot has a hole at the bottom to drain any excess water instead of leaving your succulent roots sitting in pools of stagnant water.

Last but not least, opt for premixed succulent or cactus soil. These are porous and provide excellent drainage. Purchase it online or from your nearest gardening store.

If you cannot buy premix soil, read this informative article:  Best Soil For Succulents from Succulent City and learn how to DIY your soil, among other handy succulent growing tips.

Help! My succulent is dying!

It can be heartbreaking to see the succulents you have nurtured for months start dying. Well, you do not have to watch helplessly as your succulents die when you can save them.

In this article, you will understand why your succulents are dying and how you can save them.

Help! My succulent is dying!
Dying Succulent

Reasons Why Your Succulents are Dying and What You Can Do to Save Them

It is essential to know the particular reason your succulents are dying to prevent such situations. Here are some of the reasons why succulents fail and how you can save them:

Water Damage and Mineral Accumulation

Watering your succulents with tap water will eventually lead to their death. Tap water contains additives such as chlorine, lead, and mercury, which, when accumulated in the soil, will damage the roots, cause stunted growth and death.

It is not also a good idea to water your succulents with softened water. It is because softened water contains a high concentration of sodium, which causes an interference with the water balance of your succulents and “fools” them into believing that they have taken up excess water when in actuality, they need more water. The succulents will eventually die of thirst.

The thing with softened water is that it kills your succulents and damages the soil. So, if you plant another succulent in the same soil, it will eventually die, even if you do not use softened water to water it.
In light of the above, the Cactus and Succulent Society of San Jose suggests that you use rainwater instead of tap water or softened water. If for some reason, you cannot get rainwater, you can settle for distilled water.
If you notice your succulents are slowly dying due to mineral accumulation and water treatment chemicals, you can do two things:

First, flush the contaminated soil with rainwater or distilled water to eliminate the excess mineral accumulation. Second, repot the succulent and remove the dirty soil from the roots.

Lighting Conditions

Succulents typically thrive in different home lighting conditions. But they find it challenging to adapt to the abrupt variations in light. For example, if you place your succulents outside for a while and you suddenly take them indoors, adapting to the significant changes in light will be difficult, and some succulents may start dying.
To prevent this from happening, gradually introduce your succulents to your indoor lighting conditions. Placing your succulents in a bright spot outside, ensure that the intensity of the light indoors is quite the same as where they are coming from. Placing them close to a window might suffice. After some weeks, you can move the succulents to a shadier spot indoors if you wish.

Insects and Disease

Suppose your succulents are in a properly lit environment and are watered with distilled water but still have a sickly appearance. In that case, they are most likely struggling with an insect infestation or disease. According to the Cactus and Succulent Society of San Jose, succulents are susceptible to the attack of red spider mites, mealybugs, and scale.

If you notice spider mites are attacking your succulents, quarantine the infested plants and apply a specifically formulated pesticide to control spider mites. If the spider mites have reproduced, a one-time pesticide application will not be enough. Reapply the pesticide every week and keep your succulents out of direct sunlight.

To treat mealy bugs, you will need a systemic pesticide. While contact insecticides effectively eliminate mealy bugs, they need to be applied in large quantities, making your plants burn when exposed to direct sunlight.
When it comes to scale treatment, remove the scale from the succulents using your hands or tweezers. For more efficiency, you can use a spray nozzle on a garden hose. When using the hose, ensure that the water pressure is not high enough to damage your succulents.


If your succulent’s leaves have a yellow or transparent appearance, with a soggy feel, the issue might be overwatering.
Also, if your succulents’ leaves start to fall off or if there are black spots on them, take that as a sign that you are overwatering your plants. At this stage, it may not be easy to save your succulents.
Meanwhile, bear in mind that some succulents are more sensitive to overwatering than others. For instance, Echeverias takes just about two to three days to rot if it is overwatered, while most succulents take over a few weeks.

The thing is, most succulents can survive for several weeks without water, so you do not need to overwater them. To avoid overwatering, ensure the soil is dried out before you water your succulents again.

Once you notice any signs of overwatering, adjust your watering plan. If the problem is a black spot, you will need to cut off the top of the succulent and trim. In addition, allow the cut to dry out for two to three days, and then propagate them in new soil.


Just as over-watering can pose a big problem for succulents, under-watering can lead to an equally big problem. For instance, unlike most succulents that can go for several weeks without water, you have to water Senecio haworthii and Portulacaria afra very frequently; otherwise, they will suffer from under-watering.

If you notice your succulent’s leaves are dehydrated and crispy, you have to water the plant a little more.
That said, saving an under-watered succulent is relatively easier than saving one that is overwatered. If succulents just started showing signs of wrinkles and dryness, one or two watering cycles will help them thrive again.

Tracking your watering schedule can be quite challenging, especially if you are rarely at home. So, you may tend to overwater or under-water your succulents.
While you can use a pen and paper or a spreadsheet to create a watering schedule, using a succulent tracker application can be the easiest and most effective way to keep track of watering activity.

There you have it! Now you know why your succulents are dying and what you can do to save them and prevent a reoccurrence.