Propagating Leaves Outside

You can propagate your plant leaves outside if the temperature is above 40 degrees Fahrenheit. The weather is not the only factor to consider when propagating plant leaves out, as you will learn from this article.

We will walk you through the process of propagating plants from leaf cuttings and leaf-vein cuttings.

propagating leaves outside SC
A picture of a plant growing

What to Consider When Propagating Leaves Outside

If you are propagating your plant leaves outdoors, consider the following:

Propagation Media

When propagating leaves, ensure your propagation medium comes with components that offer optimal aeration, water-retention properties, and drainage system. The soil should be a mixture of perlite, sand, vermiculite, and peat moss.

The soil should be able to provide the necessary nutrients and support for your plant to grow. Similarly, the potting medium should sustain a growing plant but is not required for propagation purposes.

For plants grown in a water medium, their roots tend to be stringy and fibrous. For this reason, such plants will find it difficult to grow when you transplant them to a container.

Moisture

A great propagation medium should contain adequate moisture for the plant to grow well. If your propagation medium has a large amount of peat moss, ensure you slowly water the plants to get an even distribution because peat moss is known to resist wetting.

Sometimes, the propagation soil may appear wet on the surface but quite dry at the bottom. If that is the case, ensure the soil is moist before sticking in the leaf cuttings.

Light

Light is very vital when it comes to propagating leaves outside. The lower the light in an environment, the slower it takes a plant to root.

But then, the plant leaves might burn or fall off if the light intensity is too high. To prevent any injury to the leaf cuttings, and ensure optimum rooting, do not keep the leaf cuttings under direct sunlight.

Humidity

Cuttings do not possess roots to replenish the water expelled during transpiration, so maintaining high humidity is very important. To prevent rot, your cuttings need adequate ventilation. Place a plastic cover over the cuttings in a way that allows air to flow freely; when you do this, condensation forms around the underside of the plastic cover, which is necessary for humidity.

Temperature

For your cuttings to develop well, propagate them at a temperature of 70 degrees Fahrenheit. During the winter, you need to provide adequate bottom heat because the soil temperature drops drastically.

Rooting Hormones

You can use rooting hormones to enhance root establishment. Root hormones contain chemicals called auxins, which stimulate your plants to form roots during propagation. You can get root hormones in gel, liquid, and powder form.

The thing is, plants do not precisely need root hormones to develop roots. Plants can carry out propagation through natural means, under the right conditions. However, you can use root hormones to hasten the root formation process. The product also comes in handy for plants that find it difficult to propagate.

Propagating Plants from Leaf Cuttings

Propagating plants outside from a leaf is relatively more comfortable and faster than seed propagation. Plants with lots of foliage can propagate from leaves.

Get a leaf cutting from a plant, snip it off a fresh leaf with its stem. You can then dip the end of the leaf-cutting in a rooting hormone to speed up the propagation process.

After that, place the stem in your propagation media, be it soil or water. If you are putting the leaf-cutting in the ground, ensure that the earth is moist. Ideally, the soil’s bottom temperature should be about 75 degrees Fahrenheit, but a little lower temperature works just as well. To maintain the right humidity levels, ensure you frequently water plant and cover the propagation medium with translucent plastic.

The leaves need about two to three weeks to root correctly and produce a fresh plant at the stem’s base. These new plants around the branch will be transplanted while the old leaf is discarded.

Some of the plants that root somewhat easily from leaf cuttings are Sansevieria, African Violets, Crassula (Jade plant), Begonia rex, Peperomia, Kalanchoe, and Plectranthus (Swedish Ivy).

African Violets roots so quickly that you can suspend it in a jar of water with good aeration. You only need to support the plant’s suspended leaves by covering the lid of the pot with a piece of paper or foil. You can create holes in the covering and insert the leaf stalk into the water.

Sansevieria is also relatively easy to propagate from leaf cuttings. Its leaves are leathery, sword-shaped, and long. Get a whole Sansevieria leaf and start cutting out a 2-inch section beginning with the leaf’s top and work your way down. Note that leaf cuttings will not roof if you stick them upside down.

Also, note that you can stick leaf cuttings close to each other, affecting their development. But once you notice their roots start developing, you can report them.

Propagating Plants from Leaf Vein Cuttings

To propagate plants from leaf vein cuttings, cut a leaf into several equal sections. Each section should have a vein. Press the bottom end of the vein into the soil with the leaf section sticking to the root. This way, a leaf-cutting can form over ten new plants.

Another way to propagate plants from leaf vein cuttings is to select a leaf and cut the veins at a 2-inch interval. After that, allow the underside of the leaf to touch the soil. After a few weeks, new plants will spring up from each cut section of the leaf.

Some common plants you can propagate from leaf vein cuttings are Sinningla, Rex begonia, and Smithianthas.

Quick Recap

Propagating leaves outside is not all that difficult. It would be best to use the proper propagation medium, humidity levels, lighting, and rooting hormones.

You can either propagate a plant from leaf cuttings or leaf vein cuttings. If everything is done right, your new plant should spring to life in a couple of weeks.

Propagating Crassula ovata

Crassula ovata is also referred to as jade plant, and it is native to South Africa. Crassula ovata is an evergreen succulent with plump, round leaves. It requires plenty of light and water to thrive indoors or outdoors.

Propagating and caring for crassula ovata is not all that difficult. You do not need to know much about succulents to propagate, water, and maintain your jade plant. Follow the guidelines in this article, and you will be fine.

propagating crassula ovata sc
A picture of crassula ovata @kermodi

Propagating Crassula Ovata from Leaf Cuttings

Propagating Crassula ovata from leaf cuttings is relatively easy, but there is a higher tendency to fail compared to stem cuttings. It is because leaf establishes and grows in a somewhat long time.

To make a new succulent from a single Crassula ovata leaf, choose any suitable leaf to cut. It would be best to go for younger, average-sized leaves because they can easily adjust once you remove them from a stem.

Use a knife to cut off the leaf and keep the leaf in a cool and dry place for the wound to dry. If you do not dry the injury from the leaf cut to dry, you risk rotting and damaging the roots.

You will notice small roots protruding from the wound after a few weeks, and the leaf will start shrinking. This phenomenon is normal and indicates that the roots are getting energy and water from the leaf to form the roots.

The next step is to place the leaf in a quick-draining soil, preferably prepared from a perlite and sand mixture. Do not water frequently to prevent the young roots from rot. Once you start seeing the leaves’ wrinkles, that indicates the succulent is getting water from the leaves because the soil is dry. Water the succulent at this point.

Once the roots are established, a small leaf and stem will start growing from the leaf.

Propagating Crassula Ovata from Stem Cuttings

You can grow Crassula ovata from stem cuttings by removing a branch or part of the stem from the parent succulent and letting the cut bit produce a new succulent.

The procedure is a bit tricky, so let us break it down. 

To start with, choose a stem that is at least 2 inches long. When selecting the stem section to cut, put the appearance into consideration. An unattractive section of the cut bit will keep showing until the stem grows large enough to conceal it.

Also, make sure the cutting you choose complements the appearance of the parent succulent.

Next, cut a stem section above the part where leaves are attached to the stem (a node). Ensure that the cut section is at least a node above the cut with an internode (a portion of the stem with no leaves).

Remove any leaf close to the cut end of the stem. It is to prevent the leaves from drawing energy from the roots. Also, cutting does not need the leaves.

Keep the cutting in a cool and dry spot, away from direct sunlight. Ensure the wound of the cut is completely dry before removing it from that position to prevent rotting.

You can plant the cutting once small roots come out of the hardened cut end just after a couple of weeks. Place the stem in a pot with good drainage so the soil dries out quickly. Ensure that the potting soil does not contain organic matter that is capable of causing rot.

Also, ensure you closely monitor the leaves once you pot the stem. If the leaves start having wrinkles, it is a sign that they are suffering from dehydration. At this point, water the plant. Like propagating from leaf cuttings, ensure you water the stem cutting occasionally to prevent rot and enhance the roots’ resilience.

How to Make Crassula Ovata Bloom

For the Crassula ovata to bloom, it needs to have a minimum of four hours of sunlight every day. But then, do not expose younger succulents to that amount of the sun. South and western-facing windows are great spots for your succulents to get an adequate supply of sunlight daily.

Crassula ovata grows best at a temperature range of 65 to 75 degrees Fahrenheit. During the winter, the temperature should be about 55 degrees Fahrenheit.

During the autumn, ensure you keep your succulent indoors when the temperature falls below 50 degrees Fahrenheit. It is because Crassula ovata is not frost-tolerant.

When it comes to watering, the Crassula ovata plant needs more water during the summer and spring. During this period, the succulent is actively growing, making it require more moisture.

While the water demand is relatively high during this period, ensure you do not overwater the plant. Give the soil a few days to get dried before watering again. Depending on how fast the soil dries out, you may have to water the succulent weekly or monthly.

The growth of your succulent will be slow or halted temporarily during the fall and winter. You do not need to water your succulents during this period frequently.

When watering, ensure that water does not splash on the leaves of your jade plant to prevent rot, especially in a humid environment.

Also, Crassula ovata is sensitive to saltwater, so use only distilled or filtered water for your watering.

If your succulent starts shedding its leaves or has a brown color, that is a sign of increasing your watering frequency. On the other hand, you should reduce your watering frequency if the succulents’ leaves are becoming squishy and plump.

Besides water and light, Crassula ovata also needs to be fed to grow well. A mixture of any liquid houseplant fertilizer or a specially formulated fertilizer for succulents will help your jade plant thrive.

Final Note

Crassula ovata is native to dry environments and should be watered with care to avoid rot and dehydration. Also, ensure that you do not use soil with a large organic matter concentration that absorbs water to grow your Crassula ovata.

As we pointed out above, you can use a parent Crassula ovata plant to propagate other younger plants and ensure that the plants and cuttings are healthy to get the best yield.

How to Propagate Succulents Successfully

How to Propagate Succulents

It’s a lot more cost-effective to grow your own succulents. Fortunately, succulents naturally come equipped with an amazing ability regrow from leaves or branches… and that means free plants!

There are three primary methods of succulent propagation, each of them easier than the last!

Leaf Propagation

If you’ve ever seen leaf propagation in action, you probably understand at least part of the fascination surrounding succulents. People love taking pictures of their leaf props – and for good reason! Nothing is more satisfying for a plant parent than seeing a whole new succulent grow from a mere leaf.

It may seem that you need a green thumb to pull off this amazing feat, but nothing could be further from the truth. Propagating succulents from leaves is very easy. All you have to do is pull the leaf off.

… And you’re done! No, seriously, that’s all there is to it. If you remove the leaf, nature will take care of the rest. For the sake of thoroughness, however, I’ll add some details.

  1. It’s vital that you get a clean break when separating the leaf from the succulent. That means there should be no extra plant matter left on the leaf or stem. This isn’t difficult to achieve since succulent leaves don’t really need to be persuaded to fall off (looking at you, Ghost Plant).
  2. To ensure you get that clean break, grab the leaf close to the base and wiggle it gently side to side. There shouldn’t be much “pulling” involved.
  3. Now that they’re separated, both the mother plant and the leaf have an open wound. You have to let it “callus” over (that’s the plant version of scabbing). Just set the leaf in a dry place and wait a week, a dish on the windowsill works great. (we highly recommend these propagation trays by Yield Lab). Don’t expose it to water during this period – that will slow or impair the callus formation and could allow bacteria or fungi to infect the succulent.
  4. Once the mother plant is callused, resume watering and treat it like normal. The leaf doesn’t need any special attention at the moment. Don’t water the leaf propagation until roots appear. It’s pointless since they can’t drink water without roots anyway. You may want to refer to our article about when you should water succulents if you need more information.
  5. You can put the leaf on dirt at any point, but don’t try burying it (or its roots). The succulent will take care of it.
  6. Once the roots show up, endeavor to keep them moist. Use a spray bottle to mist the leaf every couple of days. (Enter the quintessential, super affordable succulent tool kit). Keep the propagation in bright light so that the new growth doesn’t become etiolated (stretched out).
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That’s pretty much it! It really is as simple as pulling the leaves and chucking them on some dirt. All of the nutrients, and most of the water, that they need is inside the leaf itself. After a few months, that leaf will shrivel up and fall off. Now you’ve got a whole new succulent for the cost of one leaf!

Be aware that this only works on succulents that have distinct stems and distinct leaves. Succulents like Echeveria, Sedum, Senecio, and Graptopetalum all make great candidates. If you try this with an Aloe or a Haworthia, for example, you’ll end up with a dead leaf and disappointment. Only do it if the leaf comes off easily!

Image by:@misucculents

 

Cutting Propagation

Anyone with a modicum of gardening experience will have used this technique before. It’s a trick as old as plants themselves. You cut off a part of a succulent and stick it back into the dirt and it just starts growing again.

Crazy, right?

Succulents have an even easier time of this than other plants. With herbs and veggies, you sometimes have to coax out new roots by putting the cutting in water for a while first, but that is not so with succulents.

Here’s how you propagate succulents via cuttings:

  1. Choose where to make the cut. It needs to be near the end of the branch or stem, usually 3 to 6 inches away is appropriate. You’ll also want to make sure that the plant is growing and healthy here – propagating a weak or dying plant is a recipe for failure.
  2. Clear the stem above the intended cut. Remove leaves one to two inches above the place you want to cut for two reasons: you’re going to put that part underground and also it makes it easier to get a good cut. Bonus tip – depending on the plant, you might be able to propagate succulents leaves!
  3. Make a clean cut perpendicular to the stem (the stem should be flat on top, not diagonal at all). Be sure to use really sharp, really sterile scissors. That part is important because dull scissors will crush the plant while cutting it, which makes it less likely to recover. Dirty scissors transfer germs directly into the wound – that’s no good. I highly recommend using gardening scissors or shears for this process. These gardening pruning shears by Vivoson are really really good!
  4. Allow the mother plant and the cutting to callus just as we did for leaves in the above technique. It should take between 3-10 days. Don’t let them get wet but keep them in direct light.
  5. Stick the bottom of the cutting into the dirt up to the place where the leaves start. Depending on the species of succulent, roots should start growing within a month and you can begin to water. There will be enough water in the plant already to sustain it until then.

 

We also recommend making sure you are using quality succulent soil. We highly recommend this soil mix by Bonsai Jack. It is one of the best soil mixes on the market. It doesn’t need to be mixed with any other soil, it helps fight root rot, perfectly pH Balanced & is pathogen-free (ie: won’t kill your plants). This soil is the go-to for our office plants. 

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In summary, snip off a bit of the succulent and stick it in the ground. It couldn’t be easier. This method only works with plants that have a pronounced stem, however. Sorry Aloe and Haworthia, that means you’re not eligible. Many of the plants we suggested for leaf propagation are also great choices here: Echeveria, Sedum, Graptosedum, Graptopetalum, etc.

This method is particularly useful because it addresses two problems:

  • It “fixes” etiolated plants. When plants have insufficient light and grow leggy, that can’t be undone. You can, however, snip out the leggy part and plant the top part again to have two plants – the base of the original (which will resume growth) and a cutting. Just make sure they get enough light this time!
  • It’s the fastest way to get new plants. Growing new succulents from leaves is easy and efficient, but slow. It could take up to a year to get a decent sized plant. Cuttings root and grow more quickly than leaf propagations (plus they start out bigger).
Image by: @growingwithsucculents

Budding Propagation

It’s finally time for Aloe to shine!

Ever notice how some plants just grow more of themselves? Sempervivum are famous for it – that’s why they’re commonly called Hens and Chicks. Haworthia do it too, as do Sansevieria. It’s a very common kind of propagation and not at all unique to succulents. It’s how grass gets around, too.

The baby plants are called “buds” or “pups” or “offshoots”. They usually grow out of the base of the mother plant and share a connected root system.

Propagating plants that reproduce through budding is a double-edged sword – on one hand, you literally don’t have to do anything at all, but on the other hand you have to wait for the plant to propagate on its own.

Being at the whim of your plants isn’t so bad, though. Keep them happy and healthy and buds should grow constantly throughout their growing season. Removing and replanting them is very similar to the process of take a cutting:

  1. First, you have to wait until they’re big enough to remove. It varies from species to species, but once they’re at least an inch or two in diameter (or several inches tall for the vertical variety of succulents).
  2. Find where the pup connects to the parent. It is probably either at the base of the primary stem or connected through a thick root called a “runner”. It’s okay to unpot the plant while you’re propagating it.
  3. Using the same technique we used for cutting propagations, make a clean cut where the bud meets the mother plant. If they share roots, give a generous portion to the baby when separating them. The mother plant can make more easily.
  4. Move the bud directly into a new pot, no need to wait for callusing this time. Still, you shouldn’t water it for a few days while it heals over.

Budding is also the way to propagate succulents like cacti, so you can use this method on them too!

Inevitably, you’ll have way too many plants – especially if you are rehoming every bud that comes along. These cute little succulents make great gifts and have the added bonus of subtly converting friends to hobby. You can get some gift ideas by looking at this article about succulent planters. You can find a style your friends or family are sure to love.

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 We hope you got some pointers on how to keep your plant family healthy! If you did, please take a moment to SHARE on Facebook or PIN US on Pinterest with the social buttons below!

Enjoyed learning about Propagating Succulents? If so, you’ll really enjoy our ebook titled The Right Way to Propagating Succulents Successfully! With this ebook, you’ll find yourself more detailed answers that’ll you have greater success with propagating! With thousands of succulent lovers enjoying our ebooks, you don’t want to miss out on what works the best to grow your succulents.

Do you have any propagation tips or tricks? Share them with us in the comments below!

Thanks for reading!

If you enjoyed reading our blog about succulent propagation check out our other articles! Enhance your succulent knowledge with 6 Best Indoor Succulents, 6 Edible Succulents to Excite Your Taste Buds, or Household Items You Can use as Succulent Planters.

5 Tips for Propagating Succulents

Tips for Propagating Succulents

Propagation was our number one requested blog post article idea! (The polls on Instagram don’t lie) You asked us and we listened, continue reading below for our 5 tips to having a successful propagation process for your succulents.

Disclaimer: These are not all of the tips and tricks out there! These are just the tips that we wish we knew before our first propagation endeavor. (It was a nightmare at first). Feel free to let us know your techniques!

1. Some succulents are Easier to Propagate than Others

There are so many species of succulents out there and they all differ in difficulty when it comes to propagating. Three of the easiest succulents to have success with are: Kalanchoe daigremontiana (Mother of Thousands), Sedum morganianum (Burro’s Tail), and Sedum rubrotinctum.

Burros Tail Succulent Tips
Burro’s Tail Succulent Image: @done.by_hand_concrete

If you’re a beginner, we definitely recommend starting your propagation journey with these species! A lot of the time, the leaves of these succulents will fall down on their own and you can do the propagation process with them without accidentally cutting off too much of the leaf.

To learn more about this, check out “Why Are My Succulent Leaves Falling Off”

2. Patience

Patience you must have my young “propagator.”

Yoda from Star Wars

Time to test your patience! Succulent propagation can sometimes take up to four to six weeks before the new leaf cuttings will begin to root. Remember, great things don’t happen in a day and this process is going to be worth it at the end.

When it is time for the ends of your clippings to dry out and harden, this alone can sometimes take up to a week, so make sure you don’t rush the process!

3. Watering Succulents

After the ends of the leaves have hardened over, it’s time to water them! Every leaf hardens over at different times. This is important to know because if you water them when they haven’t fully hardened, too soon after cutting from the mother plant, they’ll sometimes turn mushy and yellowish.

When propagating, here at Succulent City we spritz the leaves once a day. A quick spray over the top of all the leaves should be enough, not too close to them. Some leaves are going to look different than others, which is totally normal.

If you want to learn more about when you should water your succulents check out our in-depth article here.

4. Don’t Place the Clippings in Direct Sunlight

Succulents are desert plants and usually, they all need to be in direct sunlight for the majority of the day. This is true, but not with the succulent leaves during the propagation process.

I always put my leaves by a window that’s protected with some shade. Once the new plant has grown from the leaves, then they can be placed in direct sunlight.

ALSO READ:

Succulent Buds Sprouting
Succulent Buds Image: @peculiarshadelemontree

5. Don’t Get Discouraged

Remember that this can sometimes be a frustrating process. Not every single leaf will create a new plant. (Remember what Yoda said).

Don’t get discouraged if you don’t have a 100% success rate. Most of the time I usually only have about 50-70% success rate for all of the leaves I propagate.

Keep up with the process and try again! Practice makes perfect, even the “experts” don’t succeed with the propagation process each time.

Until next time! Oh and don’t forget to share the love down below.

Enjoyed learning about 5 Tips for Propagating Succulents? If so, you’ll really enjoy the ebook about The Right Way to Propagating Succulents Successfully. With this ebook, you’ll find yourself more detailed answers that’ll help your succulent grow even better! With thousands of succulent lovers enjoying our ebooks, you don’t want to miss out on what works the best to grow your succulents.

View our entire eBook collection here: SucculentCity eBooks

All You Need to Know About Echeveria Lola

All You Need to Know About Echeveria Lola

There is simplicity, and complexity when it comes to keeping succulents. Simplicity comes in taking care of them, as they need less water and attention than other plants. Complexity is what any succulent gardener is faced with when it comes to choosing the perfect succulent. The variety of succulents available is astounding, and yet, there are some which are loved beyond reason. In the Echeveria variants, ‘Lola’ is a favorite. With a romantic and sensual name like Lola, it makes sense that so many would-be drawn to this stunning plant. Keeping one is like having an all-year-round stunning rose, with its evergreen, delicately arranged leaves. So, here is everything you need to know about Echeveria Lola.

All You Need to Know About Echeveria Lola
Sensual Name Such as Lola @forloveofsucculents

Introducing…Echeveria Lola

The Echeveria Lola is part of a family known as Crassulaceae, from Mexico or Central America. Where other succulents typically have green leaves, Echeveria Lola’s leaves are a delicate shade of light purple or may appear to be a mix of gray and blue hues. Her leaves grow in the shape of a rosette, with overlapping leaves that appear to grow out of a heart. Another element that adds to its beauty is the thick layer of epicuticular wax that is found on the leaves. This is known as farina and makes the plant look as though it is covered in translucent wax resembling alabaster.

Each year in the spring, the blooms from the Echeveria Lola shoot through. They are a bright shade of pink and yellow, and bell-shaped. Like other Echeveria plants, they stand out on a stalk that catches the eyes and taste buds of pollinating birds.

Taking Care of Your Echeveria Lola

Enjoy this succulent by growing it outdoors and give it the room to spread out to its full potential. Don’t worry, this plant is far from invasive so you will be able to control how stunning it is within your garden or indoors. Here are the best conditions to have when caring for this succulent.

All You Need to Know About Echeveria Lola
Take Care of Echeveria Lola @highway92succulents

Lighting

Echeveria Lola is such a pretty succulent that you may be tempted to have it inside, but this will affect how it grows. It thrives in full sunshine, though a little bit of shade would be good as well, especially in very hot climates. When positioned in a place where it does not get direct sunlight, the plant will not be able to photosynthesis. The sad result of this would be the death of the plant since it will not be able to generate the food that it needs. Keeping it indoors means that you must check a number of boxes when it comes to ‘living conditions’. Positioning the plant where it will receive the afternoon sun would be ideal.

Check out our Ebook on “Best Lighting Practices for Succulent Growth” to get our full inside look at which methods are best for lighting your succulents.

Ideal Climate

You will notice it getting bigger and healthier in the summer, as that is when its most active growth takes place. If you experience especially cold winters, where temperatures fall below 20 degrees Fahrenheit, you may need to move your plant indoors. Once there, invest in warming lamps so that your succulent does not die – cold is not Echeveria Lola’s friend.

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Did you know that some succulents prefer one climate over another? Check out “Summer & Winter Succulents: What’s the Difference?” for a list of succulents varying from season to season.

Watering the Echeveria Lola

Like other succulents, a little water goes a long way so only water it when the soil is completely dry. When watering, focus on soaking the soil and then letting it be till it is dry again. It can grow to fit a cupped hand, stretching up to 6” tall and up to 4” wide.  It is worth noting that this plant grows slowly, so you need not worry that the minimal water is affecting its overall growth. 

All You Need to Know About Echeveria Lola
Growth of Your Pretty Lola @jenssuccs

This plant will thrive in containers and also do well in rock gardens. You will need to keep an eye out for mealybugs, which are more likely to grow if you have too much water on your plants. They will pop up when there is water trapped between the leaves. If by any chance water splashes in between the leaves when watering, a small bud of cotton wool is all you need to soak up the excess water. With this in mind, the way that you water this succulent is also important. Avoid watering it from above, instead, water it from the ground level.

Propagating Echeveria Lola

Patience is what you need when propagating this succulent. It typically takes around twice as long as your average succulent and will only really work if you get it right from the get-go. Once you figure out how to make it work, you could have a while Echeveria Lola garden within just six months. Here are the steps that you should follow:

  1. Begin by taking off the leaf, something that you need to do slowly to twist off the entire leaf. For successful propagation, you need to make sure that no part of the lead is left behind on the stem.
  2. After removing the leaves, take around 48 hours before you place it back into potting soil (this is just one approach). During this time, it will develop a callous.
  3. The second approach after plucking off the leaf is to keep it under a bright light for the two-day period. Each day mist it a little and before long, a tiny succulent will start to grow. Nurse this little one until it gets a little bigger and has several leaves and then place it into a pot.
  4. You will also find little offsets after some time sprouting at the base of your plant. If outdoors, and with plenty of space, you can leave these to grow. Indoors, they are ideal to carefully cut and plant into their own pots.

Check out “5 Tips for Propagating Succulents” for more helpful tips on propagating your succulents at home.

All You Need to Know About Echeveria Lola
What You Need is Patience @dagtasmedrese

Repotting your Echeveria Lola

Once a year, transplant your succulent so that it can get rich nutrients from new potting soil to keep it going. This will especially help if you are keeping your Echeveria Lola indoors. The best time to repot your plant is in the spring, just before the growing season. When repotting, you need to carefully take the succulent out of the pot. Then, gently remove the old soil from the roots. If there are any roots that are dead, remove them. Place the succulent into a new pot with fresh potting soil, ensuring that the roots are well spread out. Do not water for around a week then water lightly. If your Echeveria Lola is growing outdoors, add a little bit of organic fertilizer and make sure that the soil is mixed up with some coarse sand for better drainage.

Tips for Care

Excellent care means that your succulent will thrive for years. Here are a few tips to make sure that happens.

  1. To maintain your succulent, stick to the basics. First, any dried or wilted leaves should carefully be picked off. This is one plant that does not need much in the way of pruning.
  2. If it naturally propagates and new plants begin to grow, you can carefully cut these off. Leave the tips to dry out for a day or two and then replant where desired.
  3. For even extra care of your plant, pay attention to the pH of the soil. Slightly acidic soil is best for this plant, and a pH of 6.0 is ideal.
  4. When keeping this plant indoors, it is best to grow it within a shallow clay pot that has excellent drainage. This will ensure that it thrives.

One key benefit to note is that Lola is non-toxic and safe if you have any animals so you can grow it anywhere. Therefore it is a great plant to have both indoors and outdoors. While non-toxic, it is not fit for consumption.

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All You Need to Know About Echeveria Lola
Maintain Your Echeveria Lola @littlesucculentshop_

Echeveria Lola Pests and Problems

Like many succulents, the quickest way to kill your plant mercilessly would be a heavy hand when it comes to water. These plants need very little water in order to survive. If you give them too much, they are prone to getting root rot which will kill the plant from the inside out. For that reason, excellent drainage is required. With pots, having holes at the bottom is ideal. When planting in your garden, mixing up the soil with some small rocks will help to improve the drainage and prevent the retention of too much water.

The main pest that affects these plants is mealy bugs. As has been noted, to keep these away, monitoring how you water the plant is your best bet. Keep it simple and focus on the base of the plant above all else. Lucky for you, we have a whole piece on how to handle mealy bugs as well. Check out “How to Get Rid of Mealybugs” for more.

All You Need to Know About Echeveria Lola
Pests & Problems of Echeveria Lola @thegirlunsure.gardens

There are plenty of succulent nurseries that have the Echeveria Lola available for purchase. Should you be looking for a more convenient option, you can purchase this plant online through Amazon, Succulents Box as well as Etsy. Garden centers will also have this plant available for purchase.

Grow a Lola and brighten up your succulent garden, wherever it may be. With its ability to thrive in even the driest conditions, this is one plant that will retain its beauty for the long haul. Let us know in the comments below if you have the Echeveria Lola already planted in your succulent garden.

Enjoyed learning about “All You Need to Know About Echeveria Lola”? If so, you’ll really enjoy our ebook about “Rare Succulents You Wish You Knew About“. With this ebook, you can find out about other succulents like this one that will captivate your eye! With thousands of succulent lovers enjoying our ebooks, you don’t want to miss out on what works the best to grow your succulents. 

Happy planting! 🌵

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