Graptopetalum Murasaki

Graptopetalum Murasaki Image

Graptopetalum Murasaki is a cultivar between Graptopetalum Superbum and Graptopetalum Leatherpetal. Renee O’Connell developed it. Both of these are perennial succulents with origins in Northern Mexico and Arizona. It has succulent, pink bubblegum leaves. The leaves have the same color as Graptopetalum Superbum, one of the parent plants. Bubblegum pink is close to purple in appearance.

Although the leaves are pink, they have an ashen appearance caused by the wax that forms on the leaves to protect the leaves from the adverse effects of the sun’s rays. There are a few instances when the leaves of this plant vary in color to be waxy green or silver-gray.

This succulent is polycarpic, which means they produce flowers every year. The flowers are star-shaped in the same fashion as other Graptopetalum plants, and they can be either white or pink. The stalk on which the flower eventually brooms appears in the middle of the rosette and is woody.

  • Sunlight: does well under direct sunlight.
  • Watering: don’t overwater.
  • Temperature: don’t keep it in freezing temperatures.
  • Propagation: three propagation methods: leaf, cuttings, offsets, and seeds.
  • Soil: does well in well-draining soil.

Placement and Lighting

Like many other succulents in this family, Graptopetalum Murasaki does well under direct sunlight. Sunlight is one of the factors for good pigmentation and flowering. The appearance of the beautiful bubblegum pink color is usually dependent on the plant getting sufficient sunlight. Since it enjoys the sun, it can do quite well planted outdoors.

It is only advisable to plant it outdoors if the environment you live in doesn’t experience freezing temperatures in winter. This plant is not cold-hardy; it can’t survive in temperatures below zero degrees Celsius. This succulent’s ideal temperature for growth is between five and thirty-five degrees Celsius. Although this succulent likes the sun, it is essential to note that when the summer sun is too much, it can scorch it.

Best Soil For Graptopetalum Murasaki

This plant does well in well-draining soil, and waterlogged soil is easy to kill. If you are going for a commercial pottage, buy cactus or succulent soil commercially. That soil is already well-draining, but you will need to make it even easier to drain. You should add fifty to seventy percent grit. Grit could be coarse sand, perlite, or pumice. The soil will always be moist, not dry, but not entirely wet either.

The pot you use to plant this succulent is critical in ensuring your soil will be well-drained. It should have at least one draining hole because the water that gets to the ground needs to get out to avoid waterlogging. You can also use a breathable pot to enhance the evaporation of water. Terracotta pots are the best option for growing these succulents.


Graptopetalum Murasaki doesn’t require intensive feeding. If the soil you planted was relatively wealthy, you don’t need to give it any extra fertilizer in the first year. However, it is essential to remember that 50-70% of your pottage is grit which usually offers no nutrients to the soil. Don’t go beyond the first year, waiting to give the plant at least a little fertilizer.

After the first year, you should apply half-strength succulent fertilizer to it monthly during its growing season. It grows in spring and summer, so that’s when you should fertilize the soil. Be wary of over-fertilization; it causes discoloration of leaves and impedes the plant’s general health. Stop applying fertilizer if the leaves start yellowing, and the problem will resolve.

Pests & Diseases

This succulent doesn’t suffer from many pests and diseases apart from mealybugs and root rot. Mealybugs become a challenge when succulents are planted indoors. However, you can easily manage by spraying the plant with pesticide soap.

If you don’t have pesticide soap nearby, mix ordinary kitchen liquid soap with water and spray the plants. Neem and pyrethrum-based pesticides are also useful because they are organic and dissipate quickly. Getting the pesticide from the air is vital, especially when you have kept the plant indoors.

The primary disease affecting Graptopetalum Murasaki is root rot which you can avoid by overwatering the plant. It is always important to remember that this succulent requires very little water; just moisture in the soil is enough. Water only when the soil is dry, and ensure the ground is easy to drain and the pot has drainage holes.

It may be impossible to salvage your plant if it suffers a severe root rot. You can, however, uproot it and use the stem for cuttings to propagate new plants. Severe root rot might have caused your leaves to fall off, so the leaves may not be helpful for propagation.

How To Propagate Graptopetalum Murasaki

This plant has three propagation methods: Leaf, cuttings, offsets, and seeds. The following is how you propagate each.

Propagation by Leaf and Cuttings

Follow the following steps.

  1. Cut a healthy, mature leaf from the plant. The best leaves for propagation are always the ones on the lower side of the plant. Make sure they aren’t dried up with age, as some of the leaves in the rosette are wont to do from time to time.
  2. Allow the leaf to be called under shade for about three or four days.
  3. Put the leaf-cutting in the potting soil. The soil should be suitable for the growth of Graptopetalum according to the characteristics we shall discuss later.
  4. Keep the soil moist but not too wet, as this is the ideal watering condition for the plant.

Cut it with a clean, sterilized knife from a healthy stem if you are propagating using a cutting. There should be nodes in the cuttings because rooting happens at the node. Treat your cutting the same way you treat the leaf as described above.

Propagation by Offsets

Graptopetalum produces offsets when the mother plant sends roots out into the soil; other plants develop from the edges of these roots.

You can let the offset grow into an independent plant in the same pot with enough space or move it into a different pot for a new plant.

Move the offset, allowing it to grow until it takes the plant form, and cut it off from the mother at the root using a sterilized blade. Put the baby plant in a moist, well-drained soil pot and allow it to grow. An offset sources faster than a leaf or cutting, becoming a plant more quickly since it is already relatively well-formed.

Propagation by Seeds

Buy certified seeds for these succulents. Certified seeds ensure more excellent production than any seeds you might produce at home unless you are an expert. Plant the seeds one inch deep in a pot or bed and water gently occasionally. The seeds can germinate for up to a month, after which little rosettes emerge. Transplant them into their pots and continue with the care routine we shall describe later in this article.

You should propagate the plant at the beginning of spring to take advantage of its growing seasons, spring and summer. Planting at any other time will only prolong the waiting period. It may even cause your cuttings and seeds to rot.

If your propagation is through offsets, you should propagate the plant only during the dormancy season, move the baby plant to a different pot, and wait for growth. Propagation by compensation is also referred to as dividing the plant.

three graptopetalum murasaki plants in a pot placed on a sun
Photo by @a.d.lovett via Instagram

Graptopetalum Murasaki Vs. Superbum

Graptopetalum Superbum is one of graptopetalum Murasaki’s parents, and there are bound to be some similarities between the two. It is for this reason that many people confuse the two.

Their colors are very similar, and the leaves can range from purple, lilac, bubblegum pink, and, sometimes, you can have a more green shade. Color difference can depend on the soil on which the succulent is planted, but exposure to the sun is the more significant determining factor.

Their flowering is the same, with each producing a five-point, star-like flower with colors ranging from white to pink. The care regime is also precisely the same for both of these Graptopetalums.

The differences between the two plants are subtle, and you are most likely to see them in the texture of the leaf. Murasaki’s leaves are relatively smooth, unlike the Superbum, whose leaves have a softer, smoother, more velvety feel. Superbum’s leaves are also a little chubbier than Murasaki’s leaves. The fatness of Superbum’s leaves makes them appear closer together than Murasaki’s leaves since the thicker Superbum leaves occupy the little offset space between the leaves on the stem.


This plant is relatively easy to maintain and gives you a grand appearance in your garden. Don’t keep it in freezing temperatures; anything under -6.7o Celsius (20o F) will kill it. Don’t overwater or over-fertilize it; you will enjoy excellent benefits at minimum input. With this short introduction, I hope it helps. Let me know if you need to know anything else about this plant!

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Succulent City chief editor


Succulent City

Hey everyone! Welcome to Succulent City! We are all about succulents, cacti, and a bit about air plants. Ten years back, in 2013, we began the journey with succulents. It started as a simple hobby, crafting and selling charming succulent-themed pins and decorations. But as time passed, our fascination with these remarkable plants grew, and we gained extensive knowledge about them. Therefore, Succulent City is the blog as you see it is now. Enjoy your visit and happly planting!

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Posted in Succulents